my 2011 Atomik Fuse 125/150

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yeah mate, i'm in the processes of doing today.
its 36 degrees here atm, and our a/c has just given up too.

i should have another battery for my old Galaxy S2 phone in the next hour or so too, as the one im using atm take shocking pics, you can hardly see whats what, see the bad bike pics above ^^
hang in there though, they are coming!
 
i checked out the wiring yesterday and worked out what goes where/what does what.


these wires all provide an earth for the LCD/LED Gear Indicator display.
the Gear Position sensor sits in the recess near the stator, and slightly forward and above the front sprocket.
usually the china motors just have a rubber blank, or a rubber with one wire coming from it, green w/red stripe.
this is for the only start in neutral bikes.
it is easy enough to disable this function by unplugging the wire from where it joins into the loom up near the cdi, and running a wire from earth to where the green w/red stripe plugged into.
some bikes have a 5 wire sensor too, you will need one of these



i had a 5 wire gear position sensor from another older stator laying around and worked out the following things,
the pink wire is for 1st gear,
the green w/red stripe is for neutral,
the blue w/red stripe is for 2nd,
the green w/black stripe is for 3rd,
and the light blue w/red stripe is for 4th



the wiring for the Gear Position LCD/LED Display is as follows,

the red w/white stripe wire is for the 12v positive feed for the display (only needs 12v when the bike is running)
the brown w/yellow stripe is for 1st,
the black w/green stripe is for 2nd
the green w/blue stripe is for 3rd,
the yellow w/blue stripe is for 4th
and the red w/brown stripe is for 5th if needed.
in neutral the display doesnt light up, unless you wire in a seperate 12V led as a neutral indicator.



so all you need is a battery, the 5 wire sensor the gets a signal form the shifter drum above the sprocket,
sensor and the lcd display to hook it up and get it running.
for the battery you could use something relatively small, and disposable, and just replace it when needed.
or you could fit a regulator/rectifier like i have and run it off a battery that can also run a headlight or an electric starter, and this gets recharged whenever you are riding the bike.



pics still to come sorry,
phone connection to pc issues now, seems my computer wont recognise my phone ??

craig
 
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here are the 2 pics that go with the Gear Position Indicator post above,
this Indicator will come in handy when i have the smaller 14T sprocket on the front.

20000101_104337.jpg


20000101_104259-1.jpg


20000101_104431.jpg
 
Re: my 2011 Atomik Fuse 125-150

I'll answer for you Craig, hey dude this is my(craigs) rabbit killing machine and is not for sale right now.
 
^^ yeah mick is right,
it's not for sale atm,
my custom Orion will be up for sale before the Atomik

cheers, craig
 
Holy crap mate!! I've looked at your ds80, this, and your Orion and mate you are a legend with the tools. I just wanna say keep doing what your doing because you're such a legend at it
 
cheers mate,
my biggest problem is i dont have loads of cash most of the time, to spend on the bikes/buggy/cars etc.
i have to do what i can making/modifying parts to suit.
i have loads of spare parts that i picked up cheap from different places.

i recently ordered a new Lifan 150 cdi loom, and the big 8 pin cdi to suit the outer rotor setup i have.
should make the bike a bit more interesting to ride, yee-hah!
 
I can get some decent 2nd hands parts which at times may only cost you postage if they are just lying around and to never be used, dont hesitate to ever ask craig.
 
thanks for that mick,
i'll see how things go

much appreciated....
 
i took the Fuse out for the long weekend, along with the custom Orion, and Buggy.
the bike went very well, all 3 days.
the headlight is pretty good, it is about 2 - 3 times brighter than the DS80s' light.
i went for a ride for about 20mins, i didn't see one bunny.

the next day, i gave a friend a short ride on it, while i rode the Orion back to the workshop, the Orion had a bit of plastic stuck in the needle and seat, caused it to flood.
my friend has ridden the Atomik a couple of times now, he has done a few laps of my track with it.

he cant believe how much torque it has, the very first time he rode he had just swapped bikes with me, he had been riding the DS80.
mate went to take off on the 150, and he stalled it, i told him how to start it from just past TDC,
he got it running again and gave it a bit more throttle so he wouldn't stall it this time,
the front wheel on the Atomik went straight up in the air, he was quick enough to get his footing and let the throttle off, while he was running behind it.
then he turned towards me, to see if i had seen it happen, i was laughing....

he repeated the same stunt again on the weekend just gone too, thought he may have learned from the first time it happened !
i told him next time he comes, i was getting him an Evil Knievel stunt suit.....


i took the Atomik up the sand hill, to see how it went, as i got half way up, the sand become very dry,
i reckon the back wheel almost sunk down the the sprocket, but i kept the revs up and roosted my way up and over the top.
mate was on the DS80, i heard him coming up the hill, then all i could hear was the bike screaming.
i leant my Atomik up on the fence and went for a look, mate was walking alongside the bike, full throttle in 1st gear, walking it up the hill.
hmm, i dont think it really needed full throttle but it's all good.
we rode back down the hill to the workshop and parked the bike up for the night.
i spotted one rabbit halfway down the sandhill, but he had heard me coming and shot out of the way, damn.



today (back home) i have fitted the outer rotor kit to the Atomik, i picked up the parts cheap as i had some spare cash, i got the bits individually, and the loom arrived from china the other day.
i took the standard lifan type stator off and fitted the new outer rotor backing plate, then stator plate.
then fitted the new wiring loom and cdi to the bike.
once i got it all on, and set up the timing fairly retarded, i started kicking it over.
it took a few kicks to fire up, it ended up needing some throttle to start.
i grabbed my timing light and started the bike again, and advanced the timing to approx 10 degrees before TDC.
the bike is very easy to start now, no signs of kickback at all, before this it was quite bad, i was half expecting to break a kickstart gear?
it revs pretty fast now too, it'll be interesting to see what it's like out in the paddocks....
now i just need to wait until we go out riding next to see how it goes


cheers, craig
 
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thanks,
i think the Lifan 150 was a good investment , and cheap too.

i've almost got the other spare parts Lifan 150 together as well,
but im still trying to find the clutch slipper/pusher that sits in the clutch cover and slips into the clutch outer bearing, it engages the clutch.
this motor was going into the custom Orion? maybe not, now....

the other day when i was out sourcing an exhaust for the Buggy, i spotted another motor too.
it's a YX160 1P60FMH, it has cracked the r/h engine case due to a kickstart gear failure.
the guy is holding it for me, i just need to find another r/h case.
i've been looking on ebay and a few other sites at a new one, some cases are listed as revised/reinforced casting? cost around $60
and some come with a stronger gear set too, for around $150 for the lot including gaskets etc.
are they a common failure/problem? and is there anything else i might need to upgrade if i go for the YX ?

http://www.dhz.com.au/buy/dirtmax-yx-160cc-150cc-engine-bottom-end-upgrade-kit/ENP-06
 
Great to hear its going strong, its allways fun to watch people jump on a pitty for the first time thinking its chinese with no power and then fall on their ass.
What's this timing like you speak of? I'm interested, just did my timing too.
Where abouts are you getting this yx frorm?
 
ok russell, if you just did your timing, how did you go about doing it?
or did you just set the valve clearances?


this is the setup i'm now running on the 150,

1outerrotor.jpg


these parts are needed to run the outer rotor kit, the coil and kill switch are not needed if you have them already.
note the adjustable slots , the bolts that hold the stator to the backing plate can be loosened off, and the stator turned around to adjust the engine timing.
the plate in the top centre of the pic bolts onto the motor where the standard stator bolts on.
then the adjustable stator plate below it bolts onto that with 2x bolts

fit the plate/stator, loom and cdi to your bike and it is now adjustable.
you can set the timing just like in a car.
so if you want more power down low, advance the timing a little,
and if you want the power up at the top end, then retard the timing.


i hooked up my timing light to a 12v battery, and the spark plug lead then start the bike.
the timing light will flash when the spark plug fires.
this flash is aimed at the flywheel mark, and you can see where the timing is set to.
i just roughly marked the degrees on my flywheel with a permanment texta.
next time the flywheel is off, i'll punch the timing marks in more accurately.
 
Hey thats pretty cool craig, thats a good enough description to make it a tutorial thread. Thanks for the info but I wasn't quite tinking straight or someting, I only adjusted my clearences. Probably leave mine as is for now as its right in the middle. Maybe later
 
the Fuse will be back home with me in the next week.
i have been looking at a spare low km Lifan 150 head i have laying around.
the ports are pretty sad looking, but nothing a carbide burr cant remove.
both the intake and exhausts will be opened up, for a smoother flow.
i have ordered some stronger valve springs to use when the head goes back together too.
also noticed when i was pulling it apart that the rockers have been binding up, and have worn out, it had a stock cam and springs in it though?
i'll get some pics up soon




i have now bought a brand new set of black PSTO TTR plastics for it too, i just need to work out what sticker set to go with them.
something very cheap to suit the budget too !
 
should turn out great mate! i reckon just go a MR sticker kit for extra street cred ;) i reckon i 160 HO or a 190 anima would look nice in it :p
 
yeah, only problem is the cost of them
that'd take a while to save for, while i'm getting $240 a fortnight.

a mate has a couple of 155/160's that he wants to get rid of, cheapish?
i've had my eye on them for a while, one is the ZS1P60YMJ :thumbup:
 
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