my Braaap Pro Daytona 190F Anima
- Thread starter my67xr
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my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
the sprocket alignment front to rear, has the top front of the swingarm 20mm higher than the top of the 16/45 sprockets
i will try and get a pic for you.
using a 37, a 39, or even a 41 sprocket on the rear would be like a chainsaw into the swinger imo
Damn weather, it's 28 here overcast an d raining atm!
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my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
It's a bit hard to see in this shot, but the top of the swingarm is 15mm higher than the top of the sprocket, then the rubber makes it higher again.
I'm putting the 17T on atm too.
I'm putting the 17T on atm too.
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Turns out my 16T front sprocket is a 15T which would help explain the wear starting on the front of the swinger.
I have got the 17T front sprocket on now after finding another problem.
The chain adjuster bolt in the back of the swingarm was bent at some stage.
I thought the bolt was going to break, so i let it sit with some MX5 Inox on it for a bit, but it came out nice.
I've replace that bolt now too.
There is about 2mm clearance between the chain to case.
At this point the case is quite thick, so i will grind some of the alloy away at some stage so i can go to an 18T sprocket later too.
I've already pulled the neutral indicator switch out last week and replaced it with a 3mm thick machine washer.
I got a pic of the original switch plate, it's shows how they bend out and cause slop in the shift drum.
in the second pic you can sort of see the edges of the washer turning down, where the drum has been pulling it into the case when shifting gears hard.
I have got the 17T front sprocket on now after finding another problem.
The chain adjuster bolt in the back of the swingarm was bent at some stage.
I thought the bolt was going to break, so i let it sit with some MX5 Inox on it for a bit, but it came out nice.
I've replace that bolt now too.
There is about 2mm clearance between the chain to case.
At this point the case is quite thick, so i will grind some of the alloy away at some stage so i can go to an 18T sprocket later too.
I've already pulled the neutral indicator switch out last week and replaced it with a 3mm thick machine washer.
I got a pic of the original switch plate, it's shows how they bend out and cause slop in the shift drum.
in the second pic you can sort of see the edges of the washer turning down, where the drum has been pulling it into the case when shifting gears hard.
lm a paranoid of gunk build up, hence wearing the case out in the sprocket area . l installed a stator( cut away) side cover . It defiantly helps get rid of any built up.
Your chain adjuster bolts must of been abused or never lubricated. there pretty chunky. there fatter than my sherco 450,s adjusters. l pulled mine out because l found grains of sand in them. Gave them some anti -thread and screwed them back in.
Your chain adjuster bolts must of been abused or never lubricated. there pretty chunky. there fatter than my sherco 450,s adjusters. l pulled mine out because l found grains of sand in them. Gave them some anti -thread and screwed them back in.
Georgalis
Miniriders OG
I was thinking the same thing
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
yeah thanks, i need to run a Die Nut over it, the first thread is a bit iffy.
it would have been an easier fix when i had the tube out fixing a stuffed valve.
it also needs a nut on the valve and a cap too.
Phil67
Well-Known Member
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15/37 was perfect for me at the tracks I ride. 50% sx second gear whole track, frankston 2 nd and 3 rd, tooradin the same. Geared perfect in my book
Riding a whole track in second gear aint even remotely close to even being in the ball park of correct gearing. You have 4 gears for a reason !!
And from what I have seen of Tooradin and Frankston, you should be using 3rd/4th, not 2nd/3rd. Go and try a 13 tooth and 14 tooth front sprockets. They are cheap to buy and easily changed.
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my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
lol,
I don't do much track work, in fact i have only been to the one.
Most of where i ride is paddocks, and large open areas.
I'll see how it goes, i have 13T-17T sprockets here.
I think i'll buy at least a decent 41T rear, that way i don't have to worry about the chain grinding through the front of the swing arm as much.
And you don't need the gears as much when you have Torque !!
Thought i'd check the clutch and kick start gears out today.
A couple of times when kicking it over i have felt a little slip, and thought it may have been the spring loaded gear on the kick start shaft, but no it wasn't.
The Driven gear on the back of the clutch is missing some teeth, 7 of them...
I have found 5 so far, i need to take the stator off to look in the bottom of the gearbox for the other 2 bits.
The previous owner mustn't have been told to kick it over after TDC :frustrated:
I don't do much track work, in fact i have only been to the one.
Most of where i ride is paddocks, and large open areas.
I'll see how it goes, i have 13T-17T sprockets here.
I think i'll buy at least a decent 41T rear, that way i don't have to worry about the chain grinding through the front of the swing arm as much.
And you don't need the gears as much when you have Torque !!
Thought i'd check the clutch and kick start gears out today.
A couple of times when kicking it over i have felt a little slip, and thought it may have been the spring loaded gear on the kick start shaft, but no it wasn't.
The Driven gear on the back of the clutch is missing some teeth, 7 of them...
I have found 5 so far, i need to take the stator off to look in the bottom of the gearbox for the other 2 bits.
The previous owner mustn't have been told to kick it over after TDC :frustrated:
GooseMan
Well-Known Member
thats a shame, the downside of buying second hand, is it a press on gear, cause maybe one from one of your old clutch baskets will fit?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
yeah, they are easy enough to replace
http://www.miniriders.com/motor-tut...50-yx160-clutch-basket-repair.html#post466522
http://www.miniriders.com/motor-tut...50-yx160-clutch-basket-repair.html#post466522
nicko451
Registered User
iv known 1 person that didnt hate the tb basket! and that was with kx65 rubbers and a few other bits to stop the problems! bottom line is these things do clutches haha
It's a bit hard to see in this shot, but the top of the swingarm is 15mm higher than the top of the sprocket, then the rubber makes it higher again.
I'm putting the 17T on atm too.
Hey 67 im looking at your engine number 24... and wanting to know if you have a pre or post de comp. Wanting to know for future engine or bike purchases, when Daytona started fitting de comps . My number is 25... with de comp. Trying to pin point what serial number they started at.
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nicko451
Registered User
i have the decomp version! ill check it shortly and let u know what mine is!
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
The first Daytona 190 came out at the end of 5/2012.
The Decomp cam kit was offered from 31/5/2013,
So i'd guess and say the complete 190FDX Decomp 2.0 might have come out a little earlier ?
They probably started it off with the serial number starting 25xxxxxxxx
Mine is not a Decomp 190 like i was told.
I went out this morning and bought some more countersunk bolts for the back of the clutch too, got 2x sets for $3.
And i already have a spare gear to rebuild it with too
The Decomp cam kit was offered from 31/5/2013,
So i'd guess and say the complete 190FDX Decomp 2.0 might have come out a little earlier ?
They probably started it off with the serial number starting 25xxxxxxxx
Mine is not a Decomp 190 like i was told.
I went out this morning and bought some more countersunk bolts for the back of the clutch too, got 2x sets for $3.
And i already have a spare gear to rebuild it with too
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
I repaired the clutch basket wednesday afternoon, drilled and tapped the basket and replaced the gear with another good one.
I used some M5 x 16mm 10.9 counter sunk bolts this time, they will still be 10x stronger than the factory rivets that hold the gear to the basket.
When i refitted the clutch i used a gearbox shim between the bearing and kick start gear to reduce the free play there.
This has made the clutch sit better, there is about 3mm clearance to the kick start idler gear, and the alloy basket is at least 3mm away from the crank gear too.
And i added a filter screen for the oil pump pickup as well, Daytona 190's don't have one ?
engine is back together again, i have only just finished reassembling it.
It still need's the r/h oil filter to be washed out and refitted, then it's ready to be filled with oil and i can try it all out.
I used some M5 x 16mm 10.9 counter sunk bolts this time, they will still be 10x stronger than the factory rivets that hold the gear to the basket.
When i refitted the clutch i used a gearbox shim between the bearing and kick start gear to reduce the free play there.
This has made the clutch sit better, there is about 3mm clearance to the kick start idler gear, and the alloy basket is at least 3mm away from the crank gear too.
And i added a filter screen for the oil pump pickup as well, Daytona 190's don't have one ?
engine is back together again, i have only just finished reassembling it.
It still need's the r/h oil filter to be washed out and refitted, then it's ready to be filled with oil and i can try it all out.
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