doing head, 54mm zongshen

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get a magnet and put it on...if its stainless the magnet won^t stick good;)
 
You done an excellent job on the head China boy ... To check for a perfect seal after lapping you clean the valve and seat spotless then apply a very light smear of bearing blue/prussian blue to the seat only first , put the valve in , rotate it fully then check for an even blue band around the valve face ... if that checks out , wipe the seat clean , apply a light smear around the valve , put it in and rotate it on the seat ... When you get an even band around both the seat and valve ... you have a perfect seal ...

As for stainless steel ... there's 3 types ... Austenitic , Martensitic , and Ferritic ... Good stainless work hardens with use and resists oxidation ...
 
ok so i have got the bike running now. just started it and let it run for about 15 mins

so things done to head are

thiner head gasket
g2 cam
hd springs
new valves
tryed to port it,

just need to put some things back on the bike and tune this carby
 
ok went for a lil ride b4, first time went out was shit house, had to push it home... the spitfire lead had come off, and the back brakes was holding disk,,,,,

fixed the brakes and put the lead back on.

went back out, and wow theres a differnce there, carby wasnt that badly tune but o well will get around to doing that

happy with the motor so far :)
 
ok so since i put it back together, its bn blowing smoke when reving up,,,

pulled the head off b4 to find out i had put the wrong head gasket on,,, it was 2mm too small, the piston had hit it when first kicked over so was bend a lil bit,

fu^k that on off and put on the other head gasket i had, akunar send me 2 alum ones, 52mm and 54mm, put the 54mm on then

now just need to start up and c if that was it,,

but before pulling head off,, i was riding the bike a bit, to c how much it smoked while riding, was riding around for about 10mins, stop in 3rd, pulled clutch in, and reved it up,, had at full throtte for about 2 secs and then bike moved forward, changed down to 2nd and went home pretty much, probby about 2min ride then, on the ride home the gear changing was feeling weird and not normal, so pretty much put in 3nd and stayed in 3nd from there,

when i get back, i pull clutch in and hit kill switch, back wheel locks up and stop, i tryed to pull clutch in and push it, no luck,

so now i dont have a clutch,

so now jst wanting to know how much a new clutch is?? well jst the clutch plates and hd springs, and will i need that special clutch puller to get to the plates,
 
well...when you pull the lever and the clutch does not disengage , this has nothing to do with sacked springs or burned clutch plates....my guess its the cluth basket ..maybe the hub is grooved or the inner spacer is stuck...you will need the clutch tool to check that!
 
yer, does not disengage,, so how would i fix this??? its the spacer is stuck, is there a way to stop this from happening again?
 
china boy788 said:
yer, does not disengage,, so how would i fix this??? its the spacer is stuck, is there a way to stop this from happening again?
Click to expand...

you have to clean the whole basket...on the pic is the part which get usually stuck...you have to press it out , clean it, sand it down maybe, because it has to move freely;)
6d5y49w6.jpg



happens all the time when the basket gets too hot:cool:
 
ok, so i got an clutcher pulled from ebay b4 for $17 and will be geting an impack driver during the week,

can any one show me this spacer??? any give an idea on where it is?? when puting clutch back on, is there a speical way to do so? or jst the same way it came off??
 
pretty much goes on the same way it came off, only problem it holding it still while you torque it down, I put a fat screwdriver in the gears between the clutch and crank, then put one clutch spring on the pressure plate with a washer to hold it down

you can see what I mean in the vid Imageshack - kickstartgears
 
ok sweet, how much did you torgue it too?? or just rly tight? and my box is 1n234 not n1234 so dont have slinger, most of it should be the same tho

and can any one comfirm wat mountain has said with like a pic??? or when i pull it off ill c it easy?
 
just really tight, and I used locktight even tho it probly did nothing with all the oil in there. If someone has torque specs for clutch, slinger and flywheel I'd really like to hear it.

I have no idea what mountains on about, I guess you'll just have to pull it apart and see what's up
 
I just tightened it. It'll torque itself. You don't have to have a torque screw driver to get them off.

- Get a screwdriver that fit prefectly and a hammer.
- Put the screw driver in the bolt x section and twist it so its tight (don't let it slip).
- While the screw driver is tight hit the end of the screw driver with the hammer.
- Do that a few times and it'll come loose.

Thats pretty much what a toque drive does and thats how I get the clutch and slinger off (covers). You can also get the nut off with a hammer and a metal bar.
 
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