KDX250 1984 2smoker!

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KDX is looking sweet!
you just need to take it to a vinduro now, you'd be sure to get an offer or 2 on it.
the original stickers really set it off too
with the brake light it could just be a bad earth/ dirty connection.
it's drawing more power with the lights on, do the brake lights work with the lights off?
 
Yeah works fine with the lights off, I was thinking that maybe the wires going to the switch were around the wrong way maybe? Because it only dims the tail light when I brake, the head light doesn't dim.
 
yeah possibly?
there would only be 3 wires going to the stop/tail light though, 1 for stop, 1 for tail, and 1 for earth.
if they were the wrong way around then the tail light wouldn't get an earth.

just thinking, insert lightbulb smiley here, lol,
the globes have 2 small pins on the metal base to lock the globe into the holder.
one is offset lower than the other
i reckon you have the globe in 180 degrees out ?
try taking it out and turning it around, then try it.


with the chain adjuster problem,
my IT200 setup works fine, doesn't move at all.
have you had the back wheel apart ?
just asking as there should be a spacer inside the rear hub, this holds the bearings in the correct spots in the hub, along with the retainer circlips on the outsides of the bearings.
when you do up the rear axle tight on the KDX, and it starts to lock the back wheel up.
i'm thinking that the bearings may be pulling in on the hub due to having no internal spacer ?
or possibly the spacer has worn ends too, due to having worn out bearings at some stage, this would make the spacer a bit shorter, and cause things to bind up when the axle gets tightened.
http://www.motosport.com/AU/dirtbike/oem-parts/KAWASAKI/1984/KDX250/REAR-HUB~BRAKE~CHAIN
 
also,
how long have you had the tank stickers on for?
a couple of guys on the Yamaha IT forum used repro stickers on their bikes, only to have them bubble up a couple of days after they put fuel in their tanks.
think they ended up buying another set of tank stickers and putting them on,
then after each day of riding they drain their tanks empty again.
hoping that there wouldnt be too many vapours leaching through the plastic tank and under the stickers.



the only other thing to do would be to clear coat the plastic tank with some of the PPC / KBS Prelucid or Glisten PC
that would seal them off pretty well, and will also help to slow/stop future fading of the plastics.


the new MCS stickers i fitted to the PW50 tank bubbled after 4 days, so they now look very second hand, :11doh:



hey, does the KDX run a battery ?
 
I'll double check that globe mate thanks. with that spacer I did take it out but from memory I put it back but I will take the wheel off and double check that, because that sounds like the most likely cause.
I put them stickers on last night mate, justin said he put some on and they bubble almost instantly and he said he pricked the bubble with a stanley knife to let the air out and it has worked for now. So I pricked lots of times with a pin before I put them on and so far it has worked but haven't been out in the shed today though. Fingers crossed!

And yes it runs a battery, but the battery only powers the indicators, horn, and maybe even the brake light, not sure about that last on though. So you can't actually have the head lights on with the engine off. Thanks for your help too craig:beerchug:, you've made my list of things to do seem much longer now:(
 
Hey mate... Keeping the tank full is supposed to help too, as its only the vapour that leeches through the plastic, not the liquid... Or so ive read... you are a bit of a guinie pig for me... ha ha...
 
ok thanks,
my IT is the same with the battery, it only runs the indicators, horn and brake light
i need to have my lighting/charge coil rewound, it boils batterys very quick.
at about 1500rpm it puts out about 8 volts which is too high (repair manual states 6.3v at idle), blip it to 3000rpm and i've measured 21 volts before.
must have a short in the windings somewhere, and the regulator cant handle dumping the extra volts.
Betta wants $230 to rewind it, i think i'll have a go at it myself first.
 
i'm not sure about just the vapours leaching through.
my Yamaha It tank is sky blue, but when i bought the bike it had been sitting for 3 months unused,
the lower section of the tank where the fuel level was at had a definate green tinge to it, stained from the oil in the premix.
it took a bit of work to rub it back and polish it back to blue again.
it may have sat for years with fuel in it before the previous owner bought it though?
 
Yeah I figured that justin, all good. Thats why I got a photo straight after I put em on lol:)

Go for it craig, main thing is to know how long a wire to use, thickness of the wire and to wind it tightly otherwise it will come out big and bulky. Then I think there is a caoting you can give it to seal it. Goodluck mate:)
 
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Just checked the sticker out today and its still look sperfect, yay:D
Also took the back wheel off and found the spacer thing to be in the hub and tight to, I think I found the prob though, the left hand side spacer was being pulled into the axle slot in the swinga, I think there needs to be a washer there or something to stop it pulling through which it is not supposed to. I will try this next time in the shed. Also on my little snail type chain adjusters the notched on it are pretty worn down so I cut them deeper so they hold better.
 
no problems russ,

i checked out the rear wheel-swingarm spacers on my IT.
they have a big built in flange on the end of the spacer, where the spacer sits against the swingarm.
 
Oh, I also have that, which way around is yours? Mine has the large end of the flange facing the wheel bearing. As if to act as a shield from dirt and water.
 
on my Yamaha, the large tapered end sits outwards to the swingarm, the hub has a rubber seal for the other end of the spacer to seal off the bearing
you can just see the fat end of the spacer facing outwards here part #27
and the rubber seal for the hub part #28
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1984/IT200L/REAR WHEEL/parts.html

but in the link i posted for the Kawasaki, post #83, it doesn't have a rubber seal to the hub, it's a different setup
the picture of the spacer looks like it has a small flange on the swingarm side though?
maybe your bike has had the rear axle over tightened at some stage, years ago, and it's pulled into the alloy swingarm a bit.
a thin/large o/d washer between the spacer and swingarm may help yours ?
 
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that Aprilla 125 would be a nice learners bike, was cheap enough.
have you seen that the Aprilla RS250 isn't lams approved, it has a too high power/weight ratio.

ps,
did you end up going for/getting your L's ?
i put a visitor message on your profile page ages ago
 
oh yeah sorry haven't check that for ages, and yes I did get it, thanks.
And what you say about the axle being over tightened has happened and I have found a washer to fit and it should work. Will try when I finish my lunch. Thanks for your help mate. Just waiting for a lever and some bark busters now.
 
so how was the test ?
any hard parts to it ? eg the theory, or practical ?
i'm not good for remembering things like, speed past a stopped tram, etc
last time i had my MC L's ( 23 years ago) it was just a matter of going into motor rego and paying the $20,
then they handed you the Learners permit, lol i wish i had gone for, and got my P's back then.
 
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