Loco's Ciniworx cxf build....

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I was thinking about some jap bearing for the crank but the sprocket on the crank needs to be realigned if I remove them.. I could do just the r/hs


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Just use china bearings and decent grease man and get this thing going you crazy mexican!! ;)
 
Ahahahahahah this guy!! Yeah I spoke to some engineers today and they said to try the case as it is... As it isn't a deep/long hairline crack.. They wouldn't be able to weld it due to it being impregnated with oil, and it could get nasty! Maybe jbweld?


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Yeah i have had 2 shops try 2 different cases, both welded ok, but as they cooled they both cracked.
It's due to different thickness metals around where the bearing sits, the thinner stuff cools quicker

If i was you i wouldn't want my crank moving in and out too much, it's going to damage something.
 
they said if it moved too much, just chuck it out, but if seats nice and doesn't have any play, it should be alright...
something nice turned up today tooooo
C35D41E1-9369-4DE8-81A1-4FE68E6AB6E5_zps09rqdbqx.jpg


D80F1BB3-EC4C-416D-8788-23FF3186CCCB_zps4s6fv8sa.jpg

and hows that? :D

FEFB4588-BD19-438A-B425-38AFE82003B7_zps5uopthf3.jpg
 
I've had a squizz at how the crank sits and I can just squeeze in a 0.004 feeler but only in one spot the rest seems good... And it doesn't move in and out from the case


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so the damage you are talking about to the case, do you mean where the alloy looks rough ?
that is a factory finish, where it was machined for the steel sleeve to fit for the bearing to sit in.

.04mm might be ok? but i thought the steel sleeve needed to be heated a bit so the bearings could slip in ?
you might find the new bearing on the crank is a bit tighter
 
A Very light tap with a rag on the end of the crank and it slips in... Also on the head I've set my clearances and my cam mustn't like the rockers...


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hmmmm... my67xr is that case still available... and is it coloured like a metallic dark grey... if not.. you wouldnt be able to paint one up?
40inc post?
 
I think the case is Gunmetal Grey, will let you know tomorrow, it's locked up in the shed.


With the rockers, it is hard to pick the difference just looking at them, but the adjuster is set at a slightly different angle (angled out a bit more) on the YX one's

not sure if these pics will show it too well.
But if you sit the 2x different rockers on a rocker shaft and line up the pads, you will see it.







so your original rockers are marked YX ?
i have a good used pair of them here i'll swap with you for the ' J's '

assembling the cases, it might just be a brand new one that needs to be heated ?
 
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yeah i noticed that the rocker wasn't sitting completely on the valve tip, just abit in from them.
i pulled the gasket off, saved it mind you! #winning! i'll re use it but more goo...! i got the honda oem shift shaft seal out of the old case and the sprocket seal too,
yeah the rockers, the originals are marked yx.. i'll send those rockers out tomorrow asap!
how much fro the case with the input shaft bearing in? unless its already out...
 
Here is that L/H case, the paint is Gunmetal Grey, and is in reasonable condition, (a few small chips, and some yellowish discoloration)
The gearbox main shaft bearing is still fitted too.







 
ive sent those rockers off to ya! how much for the case? and is it cracked in the same spot as mine? not thatr i doubt it, just want to make sure...
also yeah my bad... it is 0.04 not 0.004 lol
 
I don't even think yours is cracked, it's just where the alloy casting meets the steel sleeve, it's pretty thin.
The case is cast over/around that steel bearing sleeve.
 
here are another couple of pic's of mine






i will see if i can measure the gap to the bearing on mine.
 
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