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I'd like to know if anyone else has this issue. Friends new dpro 140's rear wheel got really stiff to the point where it would lock up briefly on rotation. It was fairly smooth but not even an hour into a ride it got pretty bad. At first I thought wheel bearings are shot. I havn't pulled his yet...

I forgot to take pics so bare with me Helped a friend put together his new dpro 140 yesterday and one thing that really stood out was the front axle, it just didn't seem right. I have the DPro 160 and it uses a typical 17mm axle with a nut on the end, the 140 seems very different it has a...

This is the stock carb on a Dpro 160. Noticed from day dot it spat fuel when using the kick starter, doesn't spit fuel when the bike is idling Thought it could be the float plunger sticking, pulled it apart and it operates smoothly. Checked the float height, not sure if i'm measuring it at the...

So an update regarding the E-start thread. Turns out the starter motor and sprag clutch are operating correctly, however it's getting jammed and slipping at the same time. If I turn the engine by hand a few times it frees up (takes a lot of force as the sprag clutch is 'sticking' the opposite...

So I decided to reconnect the e-start on the zongshen 250. The gear that sits between the starter motor, and the gear connected to the flywheel were previously removed when I bought it. The reasoning was "it was causing the starter motor to spin while the engine was running", it was also missing...

Or any other poor mans way of stopping it? Noticed that even my brand new Dpro 160 kicked back on me The real problem is the 250cc zongshen downstairs. Fit a forged kicker to replace the bent ****ty one on it. Which has a shorter radius to spin the engine faster, both ways. The engine has SO...

i immedaitely changed the stock chain for a DID gold chain. made it the same length (gotta love chain breakers) when putting it on the wheel was off the ground and the chain looks and feels pretty tight (same as stock, about the same tension, had it back it off to join the chain then...

Just want to make sure i'm not missing anything Along with it I ordered - Pro tapers - Grips - 120L DID gold chain (Do I need to take links out?) - Unifilter - 2x mineral oil - Oil filter - Air filter oil - Hour meter Procedure will be to crack open the crate and... - Regrease...

I've seen mention of discount codes for miniriders members at the DHZ store. I'm about to buy a Dpro 160 and a few accessories. Is this still valid and if so where do I find the code? Cheers

I bought a set of KLX 110 plastics as thats the general design and bolt pattern of my 3/4 size orion 250cc, but they don't quite match up. Front mudguard and number plate holder is ok, rear fender bolts match up but its slightly wider (can make it fit if I cut off the frame's retaining nuts)...

ive managed to smash my engine case 3 times now and its getting old. it does have a flimsy piece of aluminium behind the sprocket but it hasnt done anything so far i cant seem to find anything on ebay, and a broad search shows too many bike specific parts. any help? Sent from my Nexus 4 using...

I currently have a 250cc 3/4 size apollo/orion bike. The front brake is one of those impossible-to-get-air-out-no-matter-what types, the forks are crap and it handles pretty average because of it. Surprisingly though... full linkage rear suspension! It hits very hard on the bottom end and loves...

So a few days ago the bike (250cc zongshen engine) was running like absolute crap, couldn't rev it up. Upon landing a jump it cut out completely and wouldn't start I found the cause was the bolt I used to mount the 2 grounding wires had came undone and the wires were loosely touching the frame...

With my stock carb I have a lean spot at high speeds and WOT that causes an annoying surge, even though i've kept the intake and exhaust stock and gone up to #75 main (slightly better - slightly) It's also not perfect throughout the rev range. It's lean in some area's and rich in others (WOT...

Wide open throttle @ about 85kph downhill. Rear wheel locked up and freed about 3 times (with some very bad noises) until I came to a stop. I was expecting it to be solid but it did kick over (very little compression) and after a few goes it fired up. Doesn't sound good though, very tap tap...

Normally there's a decent amount of compression but went to start it again and it felt like a piston was attached and moving, but I could have spun it over with 1 finger. Took a whole bunch of fast kicks to get it started. After it ran for a while compression came back I did the valves about...

What are the best ways to sap out more power? the only requirement is to keep the stock exhaust (must be quiet) And ideally.. 1) cheap 2) keep as much fuel economy as possible 3) still looks as stock as possible I've not done anything except tune it and try to iron out high speed...

Chain was a bit too loose, saw it earlier and thought "Hope that doesn't come off..." sure enough it came off, doubled up around the front sprocket and jammed against the casing, fortunately it's only a very small crack, maybe 8mm long and 1-2mm wide. Everything else still ok, started it to get...

Thinking I might reinstall the e-start on the zhongshen 250cc. It's all there but the previous owner removed the middle gear that connects the e-start to the flywheel, saying it would continually engage when riding. I'm assuming there's supposed to be a spring behind it that pushes it inward...

Just wondering if anyone who's ridden a CT110 can comment on the shift mechanism. Does it feel about twice as stiff as any other bike? It feels unusually so, almost as if i'd prefer to use that silly heel-shift thing to upshift Of course I may have bent shift forks....