2014 TDR PRO 125 noob build

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Yep that's what the it says on the motor top number 1P52FMI, is that a good one? Yeah the carby says Japan T/A on it...Cool yeah I checked the frame out and its certainly 4130 good welds and massively thicker in the right places. Has like a box design down the whole rear of the frame where the swing arm joins, basically 5mm think I't certainly looks chunkier. Its lighter too only about 70kg. The brakes are better, has good bars. He said it bogs down sometimes too when you try to hold it open, I took it for a spin up the street and it needs the mixtures done at the very least, but really good compression ;) asked him about the jets in the carby, nah I just cleaned it he said. I'll give it a clean tomorrow, I think both the back plastics fell off when I was pulling it out in the dark.
 
To go with above...I hadnt even noticed it said 124cc on it, was pretty much dusk when I got there,the petrol tank doesnt seal properly as its threaded too...hoping I can just get a new cap, Ill try the one from the TDR and see if it works, then just buy another anodized one!
DSC_0167.jpgDSC_0166.jpg
 
yeah that's it.
the engines are ok, probably one step up from the Ducar

the china Mikuni carby will need a bigger Pilot,
they come with a #15 Pilot Jet in them standard, maybe a #17.5 as your's is slightly older.
if you bring your Jet around, i can drill it out to a #20 for you.
i did one for Blender, and he liked the results once he fitted it.

and give the foam filter a clean and re-oil it too.
 
Yeah the air filter is gunked up pretty hard. Was the first thing I noticed needed doing badly! Will go through it a bit tomorrow, check valve clearances etc, mixure etc. I should be able to drop down sometime tomorrow I;ll let you know! Its nice aftermarket stuff will actually fit this bike, he was really really firm at $400 which I thought was decent as I was fairly sure its a good bike. Better than that DMX anyway!

I havn't even tried pumping the back tyre up hopefully its just a slow leak but tubes are not much. He says he has all the original papers etc but cant get them for a few days cause he's been kicked out of home...he said he has the original receipt and all, so who ever he got it off looked after it, I dont think he's ridden it much, looks like it might have done a few burnouts that's about it...Sounds a ton different to the TDR too. Still new forks and I'm pretty much there for the moment. They might need the seals done but that not a hard job, bit of oil but I'd say its just from not being cleaned...the damping still feels good. The rear shock is a little springy but still has decent damping definitely needs to be a bit tigher for me. Do you have one of those spanners for tightening the rear shock spring?
 
yeah i have one, i'll dig it out tomorrow for you.

the springy feeling is from a loss of Nitrogen though, hardly any dampening
winding the spring seat down will make it bounce harder on the bumps.
 
Well bit of work happening to the pit pro. Valve clearances have NEVER been done, both had 0 gap in them. Drained old oil and put fresh stuff in it. The air filter has come up pretty much mint after a load of degreaser, detergent and hot water, now its clean and hanging on the line to dry. Oiled chain, and bought some actual air filter oil too. Oh Super Cheap sells the CR7HSA plugs for the same price($4.89) as the C7HSA....also check this plug out....C6HSA??? This is the plug that came out, not sure what to say about that really, I think the photo tells enough of a story DSC_0171.jpg

I dont think this has ever been changed and if it has, they just got something that fit....bit weird really....still I have a lot of hope this thing is going to run really well considering it was even starting before, with the plug and carby in the shape they were and NO valve clearance done!!! Sounds like a hole in the tube, will get a tube repair kit tomorrow and fix the hole in the tube and it should be good to go...Will try to fire it up in a bit when the air filter is dry and re-oiled! :D
 
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good work,

the NGK CR7HSA are just Resistor Plugs, they're not needed due to the Spark Plug Cap having a built in Resistor.
the Irridiums are CR7HIX.

the CR6HSA is a Hotter plug,
they may have fitted it to try and burn the extra fuel the bike was using due to the Pilot Jet being blocked up
it wouldn't have been running to well.
 
It really was a wonder that it was starting or running at all, with the gunk in the carby, the floats not sitting flat,and a warped fuel bowl. Then on closer inspection that C6HSA plug had cracks all through the ceramics too....Guess I need to start another china build thread for this Pit Pro now!

The cap you gave me works fine! Besides from that it all looks pretty good. Brakes need some attention, probably just need a bleed and some new brake pads(been concentrating on the power plant today), certainly the fronts pads look a fair bit warn down. Fix the rear tube, some new tyres and new plastics and it should be ready to go and almost like new! Then wait for the forks to break and get something new and good! :D
 
Did a 'plug chop' on the TDR today, after a bit of a ride at the secret spot...seems like it might need a touch more leaning out, thinking 1/8th of a turn in....Doesn't look nearly as bad as before! Had to up the idle a touch as well, I must've set it at about 300 rpm so was stalling out a little. No hesitation at all except trying to putt around and stalling....but that rider error nothing to do with the carby! Big tree down over the single track :/ will take the chainsaw up there soon, help the owner out a bit, should be some good firewood for camping too! :D


Showing up much blacker in the picture but the inside of the plug is a nice tan colour!!
DSC_0175.jpg
 
the Mixture Screw only really does something from idle to 1/4 throttle.
turning the Mixture Screw in will richen the idle mixtures, out leans it .


the Needle Clip position in the slide is a fine adjustment for the Main Jet.
maybe try moving the clip up one notch on the needle, if it is a little better, then try moving it up to the top notch.
if it is better again, then next step is to fit a smaller Main Jet, and put the Clip back onto the middle notch on the needle.


jet_needle.jpg
 
Right...wont be touching mixture screws then. Looks easy enough...Found this looks relatively easy....[video=youtube;srOVM_dEsrk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srOVM_dEsrk[/video]

Did you get my PM about the Grizzley 350 re-build?
 
yeah it's very easy, remove carby top, carefully pull slide out etc
then compress the spring up into the cap with one hand, and push the throttle cable down so the end is able to be unhooked out of the slide.
then there is a small retaining clip holding the needle clip/needle into the slide, pop that out, don't loose it!
then the needle will come up and out the slide through the top.
it will most likely be on the middle notch, carefully unclip it without loosing it, and move it up one notch
then reassemble the carby, making sure the notch in the slide sits on the idle speed screw side.
and that the slot in the slide lines up with the pin down the carby/slide bore.


and yeah i did get your message but been a bit busy today to reply.
i'll have to look into it a bit more
 
Ok so I'm figuring not loosing the small clips is the number 1 goal of the job yeah? Ill have a look tomorrow and see if I can work it out...without loosing the clips!
 
yeah they can spring off and disappear forever, then it's no riding until you get a new clip......
 
Something dodgy I noticed on the TDR today.... DSC_0195.jpg

Glad I found it before it did any damage to my ankle....thats stitches waiting to happen right there, will be getting the file onto that asap!
 
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